Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: No feeding required, but may be fed plankton (e.g. Goldpods) if desired
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Euphyllia like Hammer corals are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. In particular, they are regularly harvested from the islands of the Indopacific including Fiji, Tonga, Solomon Islands, and the Great Barrier Reef.
Lighting
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank.
Water Flow
Moderate to strong water movement is recommended. One of the main draws to this type of LPS coral is how it sways in the current. Water flow is both healthy for the Hammer and is pleasing aesthetically.
Water Chemistry
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank. Agonizing over these levels might be mental overkill for this coral, but it is good to periodically test just to make sure everything is in the ballpark of natural sea water levels. A couple parameters worth paying closer attention to is nitrate and phosphate. LPS corals are sensitive to declining water quality and elevated levels of nitrate and phosphate are an indicator of declining water quality. Low nitrate levels around 5-10ppm are actually welcome for large polyp stony corals, but around 30-40ppm of nitrate you might start running into some issues such as tissue recession. In extreme cases, you might see a torch coral go through full-fledged polyp bailout which we will cover in a little bit.
Coral Aggression
Corals developed all kinds of adaptations to gain a competitive advantage in the battle for real estate on the reef. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these in order to create the best environment for them long term. Euphyllia are one of the corals that extends long sweeper tentacles. Sweeper tentacles are often used as a means of defence against other encroaching coral colonies. Their white tips contain a concentration of nematocysts that can damage more delicate tank mates. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing it in a location far from other corals initially. Like most coral, Euphyllia rely to a large extent on the products of their zooxanthellae, however, in our experience, they also benefit from direct feeding. Hammers, torches, and frogspawn do not seem to aggressively feed like other LPS, so finding the right food can be a challenge.
Name: Euphyllia Glabrescens
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: No feeding required, but may be fed plankton (e.g. Goldpods) if desired
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Euphyllia like Hammer corals are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. In particular, they are regularly harvested from the islands of the Indopacific including Fiji, Tonga, Solomon Islands, and the Great Barrier Reef.
Lighting
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank.
Water Flow
Moderate to strong water movement is recommended. One of the main draws to this type of LPS coral is how it sways in the current. Water flow is both healthy for the Hammer and is pleasing aesthetically.
Water Chemistry
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank. Agonizing over these levels might be mental overkill for this coral, but it is good to periodically test just to make sure everything is in the ballpark of natural sea water levels. A couple parameters worth paying closer attention to is nitrate and phosphate. LPS corals are sensitive to declining water quality and elevated levels of nitrate and phosphate are an indicator of declining water quality. Low nitrate levels around 5-10ppm are actually welcome for large polyp stony corals, but around 30-40ppm of nitrate you might start running into some issues such as tissue recession. In extreme cases, you might see a torch coral go through full-fledged polyp bailout which we will cover in a little bit.
Coral Aggression
Corals developed all kinds of adaptations to gain a competitive advantage in the battle for real estate on the reef. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these in order to create the best environment for them long term. Euphyllia are one of the corals that extends long sweeper tentacles. Sweeper tentacles are often used as a means of defence against other encroaching coral colonies. Their white tips contain a concentration of nematocysts that can damage more delicate tank mates. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing it in a location far from other corals initially. Like most coral, Euphyllia rely to a large extent on the products of their zooxanthellae, however, in our experience, they also benefit from direct feeding. Hammers, torches, and frogspawn do not seem to aggressively feed like other LPS, so finding the right food can be a challenge.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: No feeding required, but may be fed plankton (e.g. Goldpods) if desired
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Euphyllia like Hammer corals are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. In particular, they are regularly harvested from the islands of the Indopacific including Fiji, Tonga, Solomon Islands, and the Great Barrier Reef.
Lighting
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank.
Water Flow
Moderate to strong water movement is recommended. One of the main draws to this type of LPS coral is how it sways in the current. Water flow is both healthy for the Hammer and is pleasing aesthetically.
Water Chemistry
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank. Agonizing over these levels might be mental overkill for this coral, but it is good to periodically test just to make sure everything is in the ballpark of natural sea water levels. A couple parameters worth paying closer attention to is nitrate and phosphate. LPS corals are sensitive to declining water quality and elevated levels of nitrate and phosphate are an indicator of declining water quality. Low nitrate levels around 5-10ppm are actually welcome for large polyp stony corals, but around 30-40ppm of nitrate you might start running into some issues such as tissue recession. In extreme cases, you might see a torch coral go through full-fledged polyp bailout which we will cover in a little bit.
Coral Aggression
Corals developed all kinds of adaptations to gain a competitive advantage in the battle for real estate on the reef. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these in order to create the best environment for them long term. Euphyllia are one of the corals that extends long sweeper tentacles. Sweeper tentacles are often used as a means of defence against other encroaching coral colonies. Their white tips contain a concentration of nematocysts that can damage more delicate tank mates. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing it in a location far from other corals initially. Like most coral, Euphyllia rely to a large extent on the products of their zooxanthellae, however, in our experience, they also benefit from direct feeding. Hammers, torches, and frogspawn do not seem to aggressively feed like other LPS, so finding the right food can be a challenge.
Name: Euphyllia Glabrescens
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: No feeding required, but may be fed plankton (e.g. Goldpods) if desired
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Euphyllia like Hammer corals are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. In particular, they are regularly harvested from the islands of the Indopacific including Fiji, Tonga, Solomon Islands, and the Great Barrier Reef.
Lighting
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank.
Water Flow
Moderate to strong water movement is recommended. One of the main draws to this type of LPS coral is how it sways in the current. Water flow is both healthy for the Hammer and is pleasing aesthetically.
Water Chemistry
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank. Agonizing over these levels might be mental overkill for this coral, but it is good to periodically test just to make sure everything is in the ballpark of natural sea water levels. A couple parameters worth paying closer attention to is nitrate and phosphate. LPS corals are sensitive to declining water quality and elevated levels of nitrate and phosphate are an indicator of declining water quality. Low nitrate levels around 5-10ppm are actually welcome for large polyp stony corals, but around 30-40ppm of nitrate you might start running into some issues such as tissue recession. In extreme cases, you might see a torch coral go through full-fledged polyp bailout which we will cover in a little bit.
Coral Aggression
Corals developed all kinds of adaptations to gain a competitive advantage in the battle for real estate on the reef. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these in order to create the best environment for them long term. Euphyllia are one of the corals that extends long sweeper tentacles. Sweeper tentacles are often used as a means of defence against other encroaching coral colonies. Their white tips contain a concentration of nematocysts that can damage more delicate tank mates. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing it in a location far from other corals initially. Like most coral, Euphyllia rely to a large extent on the products of their zooxanthellae, however, in our experience, they also benefit from direct feeding. Hammers, torches, and frogspawn do not seem to aggressively feed like other LPS, so finding the right food can be a challenge.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: No feeding required, but may be fed plankton (e.g. Goldpods) if desired
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Euphyllia like Hammer corals are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. In particular, they are regularly harvested from the islands of the Indopacific including Fiji, Tonga, Solomon Islands, and the Great Barrier Reef.
Lighting
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank.
Water Flow
Moderate to strong water movement is recommended. One of the main draws to this type of LPS coral is how it sways in the current. Water flow is both healthy for the Hammer and is pleasing aesthetically.
Water Chemistry
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank. Agonizing over these levels might be mental overkill for this coral, but it is good to periodically test just to make sure everything is in the ballpark of natural sea water levels. A couple parameters worth paying closer attention to is nitrate and phosphate. LPS corals are sensitive to declining water quality and elevated levels of nitrate and phosphate are an indicator of declining water quality. Low nitrate levels around 5-10ppm are actually welcome for large polyp stony corals, but around 30-40ppm of nitrate you might start running into some issues such as tissue recession. In extreme cases, you might see a torch coral go through full-fledged polyp bailout which we will cover in a little bit.
Coral Aggression
Corals developed all kinds of adaptations to gain a competitive advantage in the battle for real estate on the reef. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these in order to create the best environment for them long term. Euphyllia are one of the corals that extends long sweeper tentacles. Sweeper tentacles are often used as a means of defence against other encroaching coral colonies. Their white tips contain a concentration of nematocysts that can damage more delicate tank mates. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing it in a location far from other corals initially. Like most coral, Euphyllia rely to a large extent on the products of their zooxanthellae, however, in our experience, they also benefit from direct feeding. Hammers, torches, and frogspawn do not seem to aggressively feed like other LPS, so finding the right food can be a challenge.
Name: Euphyllia Glabrescens
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: No feeding required, but may be fed plankton (e.g. Goldpods) if desired
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Euphyllia like Hammer corals are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. In particular, they are regularly harvested from the islands of the Indopacific including Fiji, Tonga, Solomon Islands, and the Great Barrier Reef.
Lighting
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank.
Water Flow
Moderate to strong water movement is recommended. One of the main draws to this type of LPS coral is how it sways in the current. Water flow is both healthy for the Hammer and is pleasing aesthetically.
Water Chemistry
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank. Agonizing over these levels might be mental overkill for this coral, but it is good to periodically test just to make sure everything is in the ballpark of natural sea water levels. A couple parameters worth paying closer attention to is nitrate and phosphate. LPS corals are sensitive to declining water quality and elevated levels of nitrate and phosphate are an indicator of declining water quality. Low nitrate levels around 5-10ppm are actually welcome for large polyp stony corals, but around 30-40ppm of nitrate you might start running into some issues such as tissue recession. In extreme cases, you might see a torch coral go through full-fledged polyp bailout which we will cover in a little bit.
Coral Aggression
Corals developed all kinds of adaptations to gain a competitive advantage in the battle for real estate on the reef. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these in order to create the best environment for them long term. Euphyllia are one of the corals that extends long sweeper tentacles. Sweeper tentacles are often used as a means of defence against other encroaching coral colonies. Their white tips contain a concentration of nematocysts that can damage more delicate tank mates. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing it in a location far from other corals initially. Like most coral, Euphyllia rely to a large extent on the products of their zooxanthellae, however, in our experience, they also benefit from direct feeding. Hammers, torches, and frogspawn do not seem to aggressively feed like other LPS, so finding the right food can be a challenge.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: No feeding required, but may be fed plankton (e.g. Goldpods) if desired
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Euphyllia like Hammer corals are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. In particular, they are regularly harvested from the islands of the Indopacific including Fiji, Tonga, Solomon Islands, and the Great Barrier Reef.
Lighting
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank.
Water Flow
Moderate to strong water movement is recommended. One of the main draws to this type of LPS coral is how it sways in the current. Water flow is both healthy for the Hammer and is pleasing aesthetically.
Water Chemistry
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank. Agonizing over these levels might be mental overkill for this coral, but it is good to periodically test just to make sure everything is in the ballpark of natural sea water levels. A couple parameters worth paying closer attention to is nitrate and phosphate. LPS corals are sensitive to declining water quality and elevated levels of nitrate and phosphate are an indicator of declining water quality. Low nitrate levels around 5-10ppm are actually welcome for large polyp stony corals, but around 30-40ppm of nitrate you might start running into some issues such as tissue recession. In extreme cases, you might see a torch coral go through full-fledged polyp bailout which we will cover in a little bit.
Coral Aggression
Corals developed all kinds of adaptations to gain a competitive advantage in the battle for real estate on the reef. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these in order to create the best environment for them long term. Euphyllia are one of the corals that extends long sweeper tentacles. Sweeper tentacles are often used as a means of defence against other encroaching coral colonies. Their white tips contain a concentration of nematocysts that can damage more delicate tank mates. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing it in a location far from other corals initially. Like most coral, Euphyllia rely to a large extent on the products of their zooxanthellae, however, in our experience, they also benefit from direct feeding. Hammers, torches, and frogspawn do not seem to aggressively feed like other LPS, so finding the right food can be a challenge.
Name: Euphyllia Glabrescens
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: No feeding required, but may be fed plankton (e.g. Goldpods) if desired
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Euphyllia like Hammer corals are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. In particular, they are regularly harvested from the islands of the Indopacific including Fiji, Tonga, Solomon Islands, and the Great Barrier Reef.
Lighting
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank.
Water Flow
Moderate to strong water movement is recommended. One of the main draws to this type of LPS coral is how it sways in the current. Water flow is both healthy for the Hammer and is pleasing aesthetically.
Water Chemistry
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank. Agonizing over these levels might be mental overkill for this coral, but it is good to periodically test just to make sure everything is in the ballpark of natural sea water levels. A couple parameters worth paying closer attention to is nitrate and phosphate. LPS corals are sensitive to declining water quality and elevated levels of nitrate and phosphate are an indicator of declining water quality. Low nitrate levels around 5-10ppm are actually welcome for large polyp stony corals, but around 30-40ppm of nitrate you might start running into some issues such as tissue recession. In extreme cases, you might see a torch coral go through full-fledged polyp bailout which we will cover in a little bit.
Coral Aggression
Corals developed all kinds of adaptations to gain a competitive advantage in the battle for real estate on the reef. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these in order to create the best environment for them long term. Euphyllia are one of the corals that extends long sweeper tentacles. Sweeper tentacles are often used as a means of defence against other encroaching coral colonies. Their white tips contain a concentration of nematocysts that can damage more delicate tank mates. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing it in a location far from other corals initially. Like most coral, Euphyllia rely to a large extent on the products of their zooxanthellae, however, in our experience, they also benefit from direct feeding. Hammers, torches, and frogspawn do not seem to aggressively feed like other LPS, so finding the right food can be a challenge.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: No feeding required, but may be fed plankton (e.g. Goldpods) if desired
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Fungia Plate corals are one of the few types of large polyp stony corals capable of moving themselves and relocating. There is a reason they are kept on the sand bed exclusively. If plate corals are placed on the aquascape, they will jump off of your rock work! Tidal Gardens occasionally runs into rare color morphs of this incredible coral, so check back often to see our selection of WYSIWYG Fungia corals for sale.
Name: Fungia
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: No feeding required, but may be fed plankton (e.g. Goldpods) if desired
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Fungia Plate corals are one of the few types of large polyp stony corals capable of moving themselves and relocating. There is a reason they are kept on the sand bed exclusively. If plate corals are placed on the aquascape, they will jump off of your rock work! Tidal Gardens occasionally runs into rare color morphs of this incredible coral, so check back often to see our selection of WYSIWYG Fungia corals for sale.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Name: Lobophyllia
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Name: Lobophyllia
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Name: Lobophyllia
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Name: Lobophyllia
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Name: Lobophyllia
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Name: Lobophyllia
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Name: Lobophyllia
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Name: Lobophyllia
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Name: Lobophyllia
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Name: Lobophyllia
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Name: Lobophyllia
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Name: Lobophyllia
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Name: Lobophyllia
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: NA
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Lobophyllia are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. The vast majority of the Lobophyllia found in the hobby today originate from the Great Barrier Reef. There are some species of Lobophyllia from Indonesia still circulating in the trade, but they are increasingly difficult to come by.
Lighting
Lobophyllia are not the most light demanding coral. Like many stony corals they are photosynthetic however they do not typically require light intensity over 100 PAR. Having said that, there is some variability to the intensity of their colors with changes in light strength and with spectrum provided.
Water Flow
Low to Moderate water movement is recommended. I personally shoot for just enough flow to carry away waste from their mouth. In current that is too strong Lobophyllia will often times stay retracted tight against its skeleton and may recede where the flow is hitting them the hardest.
Most people have them lower in the tank and possibly on the substrate. If placing them on rocks, be careful that nothing falls on them or they do not fall down on something else.
Coral Aggression
Lobophyllia are one of those corals that is sneakily aggressive. They are not known to extend sweeper tentacles and attack neighboring corals in that manner but at night they are able to launch mesenteric filament attacks. By morning, these mesenteric filaments fully retract back into the body of the Lobo brain leaving no evidence of the aggressive behavior other than the dead coral next to it. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these interactions in order to create the best environment for them long term. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing Lobophyllia in a location a fair distance away from other corals.
Name: Trachyphyllia Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: TrachyphylliaTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: Trachyphyllia Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: TrachyphylliaTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: Trachyphyllia Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: TrachyphylliaTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: Trachyphyllia Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: TrachyphylliaTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: Trachyphyllia Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: TrachyphylliaTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: Trachyphyllia Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: TrachyphylliaTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: Trachyphyllia Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: TrachyphylliaTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: Trachyphyllia Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: TrachyphylliaTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: Trachyphyllia Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: TrachyphylliaTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: Trachyphyllia Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: TrachyphylliaTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: Trachyphyllia Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: TrachyphylliaTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: Trachyphyllia Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: TrachyphylliaTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 50-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: They are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill. Care level: Easy
Lighting
Open Brains are photosynthetic corals, meaning they get nutrients from the products of photosynthesis carried out by symbiotic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae living in their flesh. Zooxanthellae utilize chlorophyll to absorb light and produce simple sugars that the coral can consume for energy.
While some corals are more light loving than others, Trachyphyllia tend to be less demanding. In fact, they probably fare better in less intense lighting conditions. We primarily keep Trachyphyllia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. If your tank is higher in light, it will take some time for this coral to adjust to its new surroundings. When in doubt, try lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is stable before ramping it up.
Water Flow
Trachyphyllia appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Detritus build-up can cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow around the coral can prevent this accumulation. Even moderate flow can serve to keep the coral clean as the coral does a good job of slugging off debris that settle on it.
You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time. If this sort of flow isn’t adjusted it can cause the coral to die as the tissue will rub against the skeleton causing damage.
Providing periodic low flow or even zero flow is beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding.
Feeding
In addition to photosynthesis, these corals are adept feeders that can grab and consume a wide variety of foods ranging from coral-formulated sinking pellets to frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysis, and krill.
Trachyphyllia are up there with Scolymia for putting on dramatic feeding displays. By day they are a fluffy pillow of smooth multicolored tissue. But as soon as they detect the faintest hint of food in the water their feeding response is activated turning them into an explosion of hungry tentacles. I have noticed that the more regularly the Trachy is fed, the easier it is to feed it in the future. A well-fed Trachy’s tentacles are out more and the coral as a whole is more responsive to food in the water.
It is tempting to dump lots of food on them but it is possible to overfeed. Most of the nutrition Trachyphyllia needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. The risk of overfeeding is that it can pollute the water that can be hard to remedy. Aim to feed multiple times a week to allow the coral to expel the waste produced.
Target feeding LPS can always be tricky with an aquarium full of hungry fish as they will often steal it directly from the coral once you have fed it. The bigger concern with feeding is that certain fish and inverts such as shrimps and crabs can cause major damage to a coral when they go after the food. I’ve literally lost entire heads of corals the day after a big feeding and it is pretty clear one of my cleanup crew tore the polyp apart. Fish stealing food out of the coral’s grasp is one thing but if you have tank mates that rip a coral apart to get at the food, something more drastic has to be done.
There are a few different ways to try and combat this. Firstly – distraction! When it is time to feed your corals try adding a fresh strip of Nori to the other end of the tank. If you keep the fish occupied the coral should have time to digest its meal. If that isn’t successful another option is to create a DIY feeding barrier. A good way to do this is to save an old candy or pretzel container and use it to go over the top of the coral at feeding time (don’t forget to weigh it down though!). You could even go as far as drilling a hole in the top and installing a feeding tube that you can squirt the food directly into. There are a few options and plenty of DIY ideas online to solve this problem. If you want to get even fancier I am sure there are plans on the internet for 3D printed coral cages that would allow for feeding corals.
Name: Chalice Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 100-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: Not Require Care level: Easy
Location
In terms of their distribution in the wild, chalice corals are found all over the Pacific. Given their broad distribution one would be led to assume that they are readily available in the hobby, but lately that has not been the case. At the time of this recording, there is currently an import/export ban in Indonesia and Fiji where many of these corals come from so most of the specimens available in the trade are being imported out of Australia.
Lighting
I recommend moderate lighting levels around 100 PAR. Most types of chalice corals are adaptable to different lighting intensities but the first priority should always be “don’t blow away corals with light.” It does not take very long to overexpose chalice corals that can lead to bleaching and a rapid decline in health. It is far better to provide substandard lighting intensity and slowly correct the situation by adjusting the light or placement of the chalice coral RATHER THAN accidentally blasting the coral with too much light and then trying to help it recover after it bleaches.
The other reason why I would not be in a huge hurry to go crazy on light is that for the most part, chalice corals are pretty consistent with their coloration. Sure there is always some degree of variability and the occasional outlier that CAN change their color in noticeable ways, but overall there is not a lot to be gained by messing with lighting. I would aim for moderate, consistent light and just let the coral adapt to the lighting conditions on its own.
One last point I will mention about lighting is bringing out fluorescence in chalices. Many species of chalice corals are highly fluorescent under actinic blue LED lights and are real show stoppers. Even if you are a die hard metal halide or t5 fan, you are missing out if you haven’t seen chalice corals under full actinic LED illumination. Consider getting just one inexpensive strip for late night viewing.
Water Flow
Like light, water flow is not something that I would go crazy with. Moderate water movement is recommended.
Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Several species of chalice corals naturally form a bowl shape and there has to be enough flow to sweep away anything that would otherwise settle in the middle.
Too much flow and you run the risk of having the coral fall off the rock work. Their plating shape once again plays a role because if there is a lot of flow, the colony acts like a sail and can lift it off of the rocks and either face down in the substrate or worse yet onto another coral.
Feeding
Chalices are considered photosynthetic corals meaning they have a symbiotic relationship dinoflagellates living in their flesh called zooxanthellae. Strictly speaking, the zooxanthellae are the organisms carrying out the actual photosynthesis but the coral animal benefits by accessing the byproducts of their photosynthetic activity, namely the simple sugars that are produced.
Although chalice corals derive much of their nutritional needs from the byproducts of photosynthesis, they are also capable feeders. Here at Tidal Gardens, we have tried feeding chalices a number of different types of food ranging from frozen foods to pellet foods. Chalices do not have pronounced polyp extension so their feeding response can be difficult to monitor. Typically these corals utilize a mucus coat to capture food and slowly draw it into their mouths which can be seen during feeding time lapses.
Name: ChaliceTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 100-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: Not RequireCare level: Easy
Location
In terms of their distribution in the wild, chalice corals are found all over the Pacific. Given their broad distribution one would be led to assume that they are readily available in the hobby, but lately that has not been the case. At the time of this recording, there is currently an import/export ban in Indonesia and Fiji where many of these corals come from so most of the specimens available in the trade are being imported out of Australia.
Lighting
I recommend moderate lighting levels around 100 PAR. Most types of chalice corals are adaptable to different lighting intensities but the first priority should always be “don’t blow away corals with light.” It does not take very long to overexpose chalice corals that can lead to bleaching and a rapid decline in health. It is far better to provide substandard lighting intensity and slowly correct the situation by adjusting the light or placement of the chalice coral RATHER THAN accidentally blasting the coral with too much light and then trying to help it recover after it bleaches.
The other reason why I would not be in a huge hurry to go crazy on light is that for the most part, chalice corals are pretty consistent with their coloration. Sure there is always some degree of variability and the occasional outlier that CAN change their color in noticeable ways, but overall there is not a lot to be gained by messing with lighting. I would aim for moderate, consistent light and just let the coral adapt to the lighting conditions on its own.
One last point I will mention about lighting is bringing out fluorescence in chalices. Many species of chalice corals are highly fluorescent under actinic blue LED lights and are real show stoppers. Even if you are a die hard metal halide or t5 fan, you are missing out if you haven’t seen chalice corals under full actinic LED illumination. Consider getting just one inexpensive strip for late night viewing.
Water Flow
Like light, water flow is not something that I would go crazy with. Moderate water movement is recommended.
Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Several species of chalice corals naturally form a bowl shape and there has to be enough flow to sweep away anything that would otherwise settle in the middle.
Too much flow and you run the risk of having the coral fall off the rock work. Their plating shape once again plays a role because if there is a lot of flow, the colony acts like a sail and can lift it off of the rocks and either face down in the substrate or worse yet onto another coral.
Feeding
Chalices are considered photosynthetic corals meaning they have a symbiotic relationship dinoflagellates living in their flesh called zooxanthellae. Strictly speaking, the zooxanthellae are the organisms carrying out the actual photosynthesis but the coral animal benefits by accessing the byproducts of their photosynthetic activity, namely the simple sugars that are produced.
Although chalice corals derive much of their nutritional needs from the byproducts of photosynthesis, they are also capable feeders. Here at Tidal Gardens, we have tried feeding chalices a number of different types of food ranging from frozen foods to pellet foods. Chalices do not have pronounced polyp extension so their feeding response can be difficult to monitor. Typically these corals utilize a mucus coat to capture food and slowly draw it into their mouths which can be seen during feeding time lapses.
Name: Chalice Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 100-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: Not Require Care level: Easy
Location
In terms of their distribution in the wild, chalice corals are found all over the Pacific. Given their broad distribution one would be led to assume that they are readily available in the hobby, but lately that has not been the case. At the time of this recording, there is currently an import/export ban in Indonesia and Fiji where many of these corals come from so most of the specimens available in the trade are being imported out of Australia.
Lighting
I recommend moderate lighting levels around 100 PAR. Most types of chalice corals are adaptable to different lighting intensities but the first priority should always be “don’t blow away corals with light.” It does not take very long to overexpose chalice corals that can lead to bleaching and a rapid decline in health. It is far better to provide substandard lighting intensity and slowly correct the situation by adjusting the light or placement of the chalice coral RATHER THAN accidentally blasting the coral with too much light and then trying to help it recover after it bleaches.
The other reason why I would not be in a huge hurry to go crazy on light is that for the most part, chalice corals are pretty consistent with their coloration. Sure there is always some degree of variability and the occasional outlier that CAN change their color in noticeable ways, but overall there is not a lot to be gained by messing with lighting. I would aim for moderate, consistent light and just let the coral adapt to the lighting conditions on its own.
One last point I will mention about lighting is bringing out fluorescence in chalices. Many species of chalice corals are highly fluorescent under actinic blue LED lights and are real show stoppers. Even if you are a die hard metal halide or t5 fan, you are missing out if you haven’t seen chalice corals under full actinic LED illumination. Consider getting just one inexpensive strip for late night viewing.
Water Flow
Like light, water flow is not something that I would go crazy with. Moderate water movement is recommended.
Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Several species of chalice corals naturally form a bowl shape and there has to be enough flow to sweep away anything that would otherwise settle in the middle.
Too much flow and you run the risk of having the coral fall off the rock work. Their plating shape once again plays a role because if there is a lot of flow, the colony acts like a sail and can lift it off of the rocks and either face down in the substrate or worse yet onto another coral.
Feeding
Chalices are considered photosynthetic corals meaning they have a symbiotic relationship dinoflagellates living in their flesh called zooxanthellae. Strictly speaking, the zooxanthellae are the organisms carrying out the actual photosynthesis but the coral animal benefits by accessing the byproducts of their photosynthetic activity, namely the simple sugars that are produced.
Although chalice corals derive much of their nutritional needs from the byproducts of photosynthesis, they are also capable feeders. Here at Tidal Gardens, we have tried feeding chalices a number of different types of food ranging from frozen foods to pellet foods. Chalices do not have pronounced polyp extension so their feeding response can be difficult to monitor. Typically these corals utilize a mucus coat to capture food and slowly draw it into their mouths which can be seen during feeding time lapses.
Name: ChaliceTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 100-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: Not RequireCare level: Easy
Location
In terms of their distribution in the wild, chalice corals are found all over the Pacific. Given their broad distribution one would be led to assume that they are readily available in the hobby, but lately that has not been the case. At the time of this recording, there is currently an import/export ban in Indonesia and Fiji where many of these corals come from so most of the specimens available in the trade are being imported out of Australia.
Lighting
I recommend moderate lighting levels around 100 PAR. Most types of chalice corals are adaptable to different lighting intensities but the first priority should always be “don’t blow away corals with light.” It does not take very long to overexpose chalice corals that can lead to bleaching and a rapid decline in health. It is far better to provide substandard lighting intensity and slowly correct the situation by adjusting the light or placement of the chalice coral RATHER THAN accidentally blasting the coral with too much light and then trying to help it recover after it bleaches.
The other reason why I would not be in a huge hurry to go crazy on light is that for the most part, chalice corals are pretty consistent with their coloration. Sure there is always some degree of variability and the occasional outlier that CAN change their color in noticeable ways, but overall there is not a lot to be gained by messing with lighting. I would aim for moderate, consistent light and just let the coral adapt to the lighting conditions on its own.
One last point I will mention about lighting is bringing out fluorescence in chalices. Many species of chalice corals are highly fluorescent under actinic blue LED lights and are real show stoppers. Even if you are a die hard metal halide or t5 fan, you are missing out if you haven’t seen chalice corals under full actinic LED illumination. Consider getting just one inexpensive strip for late night viewing.
Water Flow
Like light, water flow is not something that I would go crazy with. Moderate water movement is recommended.
Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Several species of chalice corals naturally form a bowl shape and there has to be enough flow to sweep away anything that would otherwise settle in the middle.
Too much flow and you run the risk of having the coral fall off the rock work. Their plating shape once again plays a role because if there is a lot of flow, the colony acts like a sail and can lift it off of the rocks and either face down in the substrate or worse yet onto another coral.
Feeding
Chalices are considered photosynthetic corals meaning they have a symbiotic relationship dinoflagellates living in their flesh called zooxanthellae. Strictly speaking, the zooxanthellae are the organisms carrying out the actual photosynthesis but the coral animal benefits by accessing the byproducts of their photosynthetic activity, namely the simple sugars that are produced.
Although chalice corals derive much of their nutritional needs from the byproducts of photosynthesis, they are also capable feeders. Here at Tidal Gardens, we have tried feeding chalices a number of different types of food ranging from frozen foods to pellet foods. Chalices do not have pronounced polyp extension so their feeding response can be difficult to monitor. Typically these corals utilize a mucus coat to capture food and slowly draw it into their mouths which can be seen during feeding time lapses.
Name: Chalice Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 100-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: Not Require Care level: Easy
Location
In terms of their distribution in the wild, chalice corals are found all over the Pacific. Given their broad distribution one would be led to assume that they are readily available in the hobby, but lately that has not been the case. At the time of this recording, there is currently an import/export ban in Indonesia and Fiji where many of these corals come from so most of the specimens available in the trade are being imported out of Australia.
Lighting
I recommend moderate lighting levels around 100 PAR. Most types of chalice corals are adaptable to different lighting intensities but the first priority should always be “don’t blow away corals with light.” It does not take very long to overexpose chalice corals that can lead to bleaching and a rapid decline in health. It is far better to provide substandard lighting intensity and slowly correct the situation by adjusting the light or placement of the chalice coral RATHER THAN accidentally blasting the coral with too much light and then trying to help it recover after it bleaches.
The other reason why I would not be in a huge hurry to go crazy on light is that for the most part, chalice corals are pretty consistent with their coloration. Sure there is always some degree of variability and the occasional outlier that CAN change their color in noticeable ways, but overall there is not a lot to be gained by messing with lighting. I would aim for moderate, consistent light and just let the coral adapt to the lighting conditions on its own.
One last point I will mention about lighting is bringing out fluorescence in chalices. Many species of chalice corals are highly fluorescent under actinic blue LED lights and are real show stoppers. Even if you are a die hard metal halide or t5 fan, you are missing out if you haven’t seen chalice corals under full actinic LED illumination. Consider getting just one inexpensive strip for late night viewing.
Water Flow
Like light, water flow is not something that I would go crazy with. Moderate water movement is recommended.
Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Several species of chalice corals naturally form a bowl shape and there has to be enough flow to sweep away anything that would otherwise settle in the middle.
Too much flow and you run the risk of having the coral fall off the rock work. Their plating shape once again plays a role because if there is a lot of flow, the colony acts like a sail and can lift it off of the rocks and either face down in the substrate or worse yet onto another coral.
Feeding
Chalices are considered photosynthetic corals meaning they have a symbiotic relationship dinoflagellates living in their flesh called zooxanthellae. Strictly speaking, the zooxanthellae are the organisms carrying out the actual photosynthesis but the coral animal benefits by accessing the byproducts of their photosynthetic activity, namely the simple sugars that are produced.
Although chalice corals derive much of their nutritional needs from the byproducts of photosynthesis, they are also capable feeders. Here at Tidal Gardens, we have tried feeding chalices a number of different types of food ranging from frozen foods to pellet foods. Chalices do not have pronounced polyp extension so their feeding response can be difficult to monitor. Typically these corals utilize a mucus coat to capture food and slowly draw it into their mouths which can be seen during feeding time lapses.
Name: ChaliceTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 100-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: Not RequireCare level: Easy
Location
In terms of their distribution in the wild, chalice corals are found all over the Pacific. Given their broad distribution one would be led to assume that they are readily available in the hobby, but lately that has not been the case. At the time of this recording, there is currently an import/export ban in Indonesia and Fiji where many of these corals come from so most of the specimens available in the trade are being imported out of Australia.
Lighting
I recommend moderate lighting levels around 100 PAR. Most types of chalice corals are adaptable to different lighting intensities but the first priority should always be “don’t blow away corals with light.” It does not take very long to overexpose chalice corals that can lead to bleaching and a rapid decline in health. It is far better to provide substandard lighting intensity and slowly correct the situation by adjusting the light or placement of the chalice coral RATHER THAN accidentally blasting the coral with too much light and then trying to help it recover after it bleaches.
The other reason why I would not be in a huge hurry to go crazy on light is that for the most part, chalice corals are pretty consistent with their coloration. Sure there is always some degree of variability and the occasional outlier that CAN change their color in noticeable ways, but overall there is not a lot to be gained by messing with lighting. I would aim for moderate, consistent light and just let the coral adapt to the lighting conditions on its own.
One last point I will mention about lighting is bringing out fluorescence in chalices. Many species of chalice corals are highly fluorescent under actinic blue LED lights and are real show stoppers. Even if you are a die hard metal halide or t5 fan, you are missing out if you haven’t seen chalice corals under full actinic LED illumination. Consider getting just one inexpensive strip for late night viewing.
Water Flow
Like light, water flow is not something that I would go crazy with. Moderate water movement is recommended.
Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Several species of chalice corals naturally form a bowl shape and there has to be enough flow to sweep away anything that would otherwise settle in the middle.
Too much flow and you run the risk of having the coral fall off the rock work. Their plating shape once again plays a role because if there is a lot of flow, the colony acts like a sail and can lift it off of the rocks and either face down in the substrate or worse yet onto another coral.
Feeding
Chalices are considered photosynthetic corals meaning they have a symbiotic relationship dinoflagellates living in their flesh called zooxanthellae. Strictly speaking, the zooxanthellae are the organisms carrying out the actual photosynthesis but the coral animal benefits by accessing the byproducts of their photosynthetic activity, namely the simple sugars that are produced.
Although chalice corals derive much of their nutritional needs from the byproducts of photosynthesis, they are also capable feeders. Here at Tidal Gardens, we have tried feeding chalices a number of different types of food ranging from frozen foods to pellet foods. Chalices do not have pronounced polyp extension so their feeding response can be difficult to monitor. Typically these corals utilize a mucus coat to capture food and slowly draw it into their mouths which can be seen during feeding time lapses.
Name: Chalice Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 100-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: Not Require Care level: Easy
Location
In terms of their distribution in the wild, chalice corals are found all over the Pacific. Given their broad distribution one would be led to assume that they are readily available in the hobby, but lately that has not been the case. At the time of this recording, there is currently an import/export ban in Indonesia and Fiji where many of these corals come from so most of the specimens available in the trade are being imported out of Australia.
Lighting
I recommend moderate lighting levels around 100 PAR. Most types of chalice corals are adaptable to different lighting intensities but the first priority should always be “don’t blow away corals with light.” It does not take very long to overexpose chalice corals that can lead to bleaching and a rapid decline in health. It is far better to provide substandard lighting intensity and slowly correct the situation by adjusting the light or placement of the chalice coral RATHER THAN accidentally blasting the coral with too much light and then trying to help it recover after it bleaches.
The other reason why I would not be in a huge hurry to go crazy on light is that for the most part, chalice corals are pretty consistent with their coloration. Sure there is always some degree of variability and the occasional outlier that CAN change their color in noticeable ways, but overall there is not a lot to be gained by messing with lighting. I would aim for moderate, consistent light and just let the coral adapt to the lighting conditions on its own.
One last point I will mention about lighting is bringing out fluorescence in chalices. Many species of chalice corals are highly fluorescent under actinic blue LED lights and are real show stoppers. Even if you are a die hard metal halide or t5 fan, you are missing out if you haven’t seen chalice corals under full actinic LED illumination. Consider getting just one inexpensive strip for late night viewing.
Water Flow
Like light, water flow is not something that I would go crazy with. Moderate water movement is recommended.
Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Several species of chalice corals naturally form a bowl shape and there has to be enough flow to sweep away anything that would otherwise settle in the middle.
Too much flow and you run the risk of having the coral fall off the rock work. Their plating shape once again plays a role because if there is a lot of flow, the colony acts like a sail and can lift it off of the rocks and either face down in the substrate or worse yet onto another coral.
Feeding
Chalices are considered photosynthetic corals meaning they have a symbiotic relationship dinoflagellates living in their flesh called zooxanthellae. Strictly speaking, the zooxanthellae are the organisms carrying out the actual photosynthesis but the coral animal benefits by accessing the byproducts of their photosynthetic activity, namely the simple sugars that are produced.
Although chalice corals derive much of their nutritional needs from the byproducts of photosynthesis, they are also capable feeders. Here at Tidal Gardens, we have tried feeding chalices a number of different types of food ranging from frozen foods to pellet foods. Chalices do not have pronounced polyp extension so their feeding response can be difficult to monitor. Typically these corals utilize a mucus coat to capture food and slowly draw it into their mouths which can be seen during feeding time lapses.
Name: ChaliceTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 100-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: Not RequireCare level: Easy
Location
In terms of their distribution in the wild, chalice corals are found all over the Pacific. Given their broad distribution one would be led to assume that they are readily available in the hobby, but lately that has not been the case. At the time of this recording, there is currently an import/export ban in Indonesia and Fiji where many of these corals come from so most of the specimens available in the trade are being imported out of Australia.
Lighting
I recommend moderate lighting levels around 100 PAR. Most types of chalice corals are adaptable to different lighting intensities but the first priority should always be “don’t blow away corals with light.” It does not take very long to overexpose chalice corals that can lead to bleaching and a rapid decline in health. It is far better to provide substandard lighting intensity and slowly correct the situation by adjusting the light or placement of the chalice coral RATHER THAN accidentally blasting the coral with too much light and then trying to help it recover after it bleaches.
The other reason why I would not be in a huge hurry to go crazy on light is that for the most part, chalice corals are pretty consistent with their coloration. Sure there is always some degree of variability and the occasional outlier that CAN change their color in noticeable ways, but overall there is not a lot to be gained by messing with lighting. I would aim for moderate, consistent light and just let the coral adapt to the lighting conditions on its own.
One last point I will mention about lighting is bringing out fluorescence in chalices. Many species of chalice corals are highly fluorescent under actinic blue LED lights and are real show stoppers. Even if you are a die hard metal halide or t5 fan, you are missing out if you haven’t seen chalice corals under full actinic LED illumination. Consider getting just one inexpensive strip for late night viewing.
Water Flow
Like light, water flow is not something that I would go crazy with. Moderate water movement is recommended.
Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Several species of chalice corals naturally form a bowl shape and there has to be enough flow to sweep away anything that would otherwise settle in the middle.
Too much flow and you run the risk of having the coral fall off the rock work. Their plating shape once again plays a role because if there is a lot of flow, the colony acts like a sail and can lift it off of the rocks and either face down in the substrate or worse yet onto another coral.
Feeding
Chalices are considered photosynthetic corals meaning they have a symbiotic relationship dinoflagellates living in their flesh called zooxanthellae. Strictly speaking, the zooxanthellae are the organisms carrying out the actual photosynthesis but the coral animal benefits by accessing the byproducts of their photosynthetic activity, namely the simple sugars that are produced.
Although chalice corals derive much of their nutritional needs from the byproducts of photosynthesis, they are also capable feeders. Here at Tidal Gardens, we have tried feeding chalices a number of different types of food ranging from frozen foods to pellet foods. Chalices do not have pronounced polyp extension so their feeding response can be difficult to monitor. Typically these corals utilize a mucus coat to capture food and slowly draw it into their mouths which can be seen during feeding time lapses.
Name: Chalice Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 100-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: Not Require Care level: Easy
Location
In terms of their distribution in the wild, chalice corals are found all over the Pacific. Given their broad distribution one would be led to assume that they are readily available in the hobby, but lately that has not been the case. At the time of this recording, there is currently an import/export ban in Indonesia and Fiji where many of these corals come from so most of the specimens available in the trade are being imported out of Australia.
Lighting
I recommend moderate lighting levels around 100 PAR. Most types of chalice corals are adaptable to different lighting intensities but the first priority should always be “don’t blow away corals with light.” It does not take very long to overexpose chalice corals that can lead to bleaching and a rapid decline in health. It is far better to provide substandard lighting intensity and slowly correct the situation by adjusting the light or placement of the chalice coral RATHER THAN accidentally blasting the coral with too much light and then trying to help it recover after it bleaches.
The other reason why I would not be in a huge hurry to go crazy on light is that for the most part, chalice corals are pretty consistent with their coloration. Sure there is always some degree of variability and the occasional outlier that CAN change their color in noticeable ways, but overall there is not a lot to be gained by messing with lighting. I would aim for moderate, consistent light and just let the coral adapt to the lighting conditions on its own.
One last point I will mention about lighting is bringing out fluorescence in chalices. Many species of chalice corals are highly fluorescent under actinic blue LED lights and are real show stoppers. Even if you are a die hard metal halide or t5 fan, you are missing out if you haven’t seen chalice corals under full actinic LED illumination. Consider getting just one inexpensive strip for late night viewing.
Water Flow
Like light, water flow is not something that I would go crazy with. Moderate water movement is recommended.
Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Several species of chalice corals naturally form a bowl shape and there has to be enough flow to sweep away anything that would otherwise settle in the middle.
Too much flow and you run the risk of having the coral fall off the rock work. Their plating shape once again plays a role because if there is a lot of flow, the colony acts like a sail and can lift it off of the rocks and either face down in the substrate or worse yet onto another coral.
Feeding
Chalices are considered photosynthetic corals meaning they have a symbiotic relationship dinoflagellates living in their flesh called zooxanthellae. Strictly speaking, the zooxanthellae are the organisms carrying out the actual photosynthesis but the coral animal benefits by accessing the byproducts of their photosynthetic activity, namely the simple sugars that are produced.
Although chalice corals derive much of their nutritional needs from the byproducts of photosynthesis, they are also capable feeders. Here at Tidal Gardens, we have tried feeding chalices a number of different types of food ranging from frozen foods to pellet foods. Chalices do not have pronounced polyp extension so their feeding response can be difficult to monitor. Typically these corals utilize a mucus coat to capture food and slowly draw it into their mouths which can be seen during feeding time lapses.
Name: ChaliceTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 100-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: Not RequireCare level: Easy
Location
In terms of their distribution in the wild, chalice corals are found all over the Pacific. Given their broad distribution one would be led to assume that they are readily available in the hobby, but lately that has not been the case. At the time of this recording, there is currently an import/export ban in Indonesia and Fiji where many of these corals come from so most of the specimens available in the trade are being imported out of Australia.
Lighting
I recommend moderate lighting levels around 100 PAR. Most types of chalice corals are adaptable to different lighting intensities but the first priority should always be “don’t blow away corals with light.” It does not take very long to overexpose chalice corals that can lead to bleaching and a rapid decline in health. It is far better to provide substandard lighting intensity and slowly correct the situation by adjusting the light or placement of the chalice coral RATHER THAN accidentally blasting the coral with too much light and then trying to help it recover after it bleaches.
The other reason why I would not be in a huge hurry to go crazy on light is that for the most part, chalice corals are pretty consistent with their coloration. Sure there is always some degree of variability and the occasional outlier that CAN change their color in noticeable ways, but overall there is not a lot to be gained by messing with lighting. I would aim for moderate, consistent light and just let the coral adapt to the lighting conditions on its own.
One last point I will mention about lighting is bringing out fluorescence in chalices. Many species of chalice corals are highly fluorescent under actinic blue LED lights and are real show stoppers. Even if you are a die hard metal halide or t5 fan, you are missing out if you haven’t seen chalice corals under full actinic LED illumination. Consider getting just one inexpensive strip for late night viewing.
Water Flow
Like light, water flow is not something that I would go crazy with. Moderate water movement is recommended.
Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Several species of chalice corals naturally form a bowl shape and there has to be enough flow to sweep away anything that would otherwise settle in the middle.
Too much flow and you run the risk of having the coral fall off the rock work. Their plating shape once again plays a role because if there is a lot of flow, the colony acts like a sail and can lift it off of the rocks and either face down in the substrate or worse yet onto another coral.
Feeding
Chalices are considered photosynthetic corals meaning they have a symbiotic relationship dinoflagellates living in their flesh called zooxanthellae. Strictly speaking, the zooxanthellae are the organisms carrying out the actual photosynthesis but the coral animal benefits by accessing the byproducts of their photosynthetic activity, namely the simple sugars that are produced.
Although chalice corals derive much of their nutritional needs from the byproducts of photosynthesis, they are also capable feeders. Here at Tidal Gardens, we have tried feeding chalices a number of different types of food ranging from frozen foods to pellet foods. Chalices do not have pronounced polyp extension so their feeding response can be difficult to monitor. Typically these corals utilize a mucus coat to capture food and slowly draw it into their mouths which can be seen during feeding time lapses.
Name: Chalice Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 100-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: Not Require Care level: Easy
Location
In terms of their distribution in the wild, chalice corals are found all over the Pacific. Given their broad distribution one would be led to assume that they are readily available in the hobby, but lately that has not been the case. At the time of this recording, there is currently an import/export ban in Indonesia and Fiji where many of these corals come from so most of the specimens available in the trade are being imported out of Australia.
Lighting
I recommend moderate lighting levels around 100 PAR. Most types of chalice corals are adaptable to different lighting intensities but the first priority should always be “don’t blow away corals with light.” It does not take very long to overexpose chalice corals that can lead to bleaching and a rapid decline in health. It is far better to provide substandard lighting intensity and slowly correct the situation by adjusting the light or placement of the chalice coral RATHER THAN accidentally blasting the coral with too much light and then trying to help it recover after it bleaches.
The other reason why I would not be in a huge hurry to go crazy on light is that for the most part, chalice corals are pretty consistent with their coloration. Sure there is always some degree of variability and the occasional outlier that CAN change their color in noticeable ways, but overall there is not a lot to be gained by messing with lighting. I would aim for moderate, consistent light and just let the coral adapt to the lighting conditions on its own.
One last point I will mention about lighting is bringing out fluorescence in chalices. Many species of chalice corals are highly fluorescent under actinic blue LED lights and are real show stoppers. Even if you are a die hard metal halide or t5 fan, you are missing out if you haven’t seen chalice corals under full actinic LED illumination. Consider getting just one inexpensive strip for late night viewing.
Water Flow
Like light, water flow is not something that I would go crazy with. Moderate water movement is recommended.
Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Several species of chalice corals naturally form a bowl shape and there has to be enough flow to sweep away anything that would otherwise settle in the middle.
Too much flow and you run the risk of having the coral fall off the rock work. Their plating shape once again plays a role because if there is a lot of flow, the colony acts like a sail and can lift it off of the rocks and either face down in the substrate or worse yet onto another coral.
Feeding
Chalices are considered photosynthetic corals meaning they have a symbiotic relationship dinoflagellates living in their flesh called zooxanthellae. Strictly speaking, the zooxanthellae are the organisms carrying out the actual photosynthesis but the coral animal benefits by accessing the byproducts of their photosynthetic activity, namely the simple sugars that are produced.
Although chalice corals derive much of their nutritional needs from the byproducts of photosynthesis, they are also capable feeders. Here at Tidal Gardens, we have tried feeding chalices a number of different types of food ranging from frozen foods to pellet foods. Chalices do not have pronounced polyp extension so their feeding response can be difficult to monitor. Typically these corals utilize a mucus coat to capture food and slowly draw it into their mouths which can be seen during feeding time lapses.
Name: ChaliceTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 100-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: Not RequireCare level: Easy
Location
In terms of their distribution in the wild, chalice corals are found all over the Pacific. Given their broad distribution one would be led to assume that they are readily available in the hobby, but lately that has not been the case. At the time of this recording, there is currently an import/export ban in Indonesia and Fiji where many of these corals come from so most of the specimens available in the trade are being imported out of Australia.
Lighting
I recommend moderate lighting levels around 100 PAR. Most types of chalice corals are adaptable to different lighting intensities but the first priority should always be “don’t blow away corals with light.” It does not take very long to overexpose chalice corals that can lead to bleaching and a rapid decline in health. It is far better to provide substandard lighting intensity and slowly correct the situation by adjusting the light or placement of the chalice coral RATHER THAN accidentally blasting the coral with too much light and then trying to help it recover after it bleaches.
The other reason why I would not be in a huge hurry to go crazy on light is that for the most part, chalice corals are pretty consistent with their coloration. Sure there is always some degree of variability and the occasional outlier that CAN change their color in noticeable ways, but overall there is not a lot to be gained by messing with lighting. I would aim for moderate, consistent light and just let the coral adapt to the lighting conditions on its own.
One last point I will mention about lighting is bringing out fluorescence in chalices. Many species of chalice corals are highly fluorescent under actinic blue LED lights and are real show stoppers. Even if you are a die hard metal halide or t5 fan, you are missing out if you haven’t seen chalice corals under full actinic LED illumination. Consider getting just one inexpensive strip for late night viewing.
Water Flow
Like light, water flow is not something that I would go crazy with. Moderate water movement is recommended.
Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Several species of chalice corals naturally form a bowl shape and there has to be enough flow to sweep away anything that would otherwise settle in the middle.
Too much flow and you run the risk of having the coral fall off the rock work. Their plating shape once again plays a role because if there is a lot of flow, the colony acts like a sail and can lift it off of the rocks and either face down in the substrate or worse yet onto another coral.
Feeding
Chalices are considered photosynthetic corals meaning they have a symbiotic relationship dinoflagellates living in their flesh called zooxanthellae. Strictly speaking, the zooxanthellae are the organisms carrying out the actual photosynthesis but the coral animal benefits by accessing the byproducts of their photosynthetic activity, namely the simple sugars that are produced.
Although chalice corals derive much of their nutritional needs from the byproducts of photosynthesis, they are also capable feeders. Here at Tidal Gardens, we have tried feeding chalices a number of different types of food ranging from frozen foods to pellet foods. Chalices do not have pronounced polyp extension so their feeding response can be difficult to monitor. Typically these corals utilize a mucus coat to capture food and slowly draw it into their mouths which can be seen during feeding time lapses.
Name: Chalice Temperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 100-150 Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: Not Require Care level: Easy
Location
In terms of their distribution in the wild, chalice corals are found all over the Pacific. Given their broad distribution one would be led to assume that they are readily available in the hobby, but lately that has not been the case. At the time of this recording, there is currently an import/export ban in Indonesia and Fiji where many of these corals come from so most of the specimens available in the trade are being imported out of Australia.
Lighting
I recommend moderate lighting levels around 100 PAR. Most types of chalice corals are adaptable to different lighting intensities but the first priority should always be “don’t blow away corals with light.” It does not take very long to overexpose chalice corals that can lead to bleaching and a rapid decline in health. It is far better to provide substandard lighting intensity and slowly correct the situation by adjusting the light or placement of the chalice coral RATHER THAN accidentally blasting the coral with too much light and then trying to help it recover after it bleaches.
The other reason why I would not be in a huge hurry to go crazy on light is that for the most part, chalice corals are pretty consistent with their coloration. Sure there is always some degree of variability and the occasional outlier that CAN change their color in noticeable ways, but overall there is not a lot to be gained by messing with lighting. I would aim for moderate, consistent light and just let the coral adapt to the lighting conditions on its own.
One last point I will mention about lighting is bringing out fluorescence in chalices. Many species of chalice corals are highly fluorescent under actinic blue LED lights and are real show stoppers. Even if you are a die hard metal halide or t5 fan, you are missing out if you haven’t seen chalice corals under full actinic LED illumination. Consider getting just one inexpensive strip for late night viewing.
Water Flow
Like light, water flow is not something that I would go crazy with. Moderate water movement is recommended.
Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Several species of chalice corals naturally form a bowl shape and there has to be enough flow to sweep away anything that would otherwise settle in the middle.
Too much flow and you run the risk of having the coral fall off the rock work. Their plating shape once again plays a role because if there is a lot of flow, the colony acts like a sail and can lift it off of the rocks and either face down in the substrate or worse yet onto another coral.
Feeding
Chalices are considered photosynthetic corals meaning they have a symbiotic relationship dinoflagellates living in their flesh called zooxanthellae. Strictly speaking, the zooxanthellae are the organisms carrying out the actual photosynthesis but the coral animal benefits by accessing the byproducts of their photosynthetic activity, namely the simple sugars that are produced.
Although chalice corals derive much of their nutritional needs from the byproducts of photosynthesis, they are also capable feeders. Here at Tidal Gardens, we have tried feeding chalices a number of different types of food ranging from frozen foods to pellet foods. Chalices do not have pronounced polyp extension so their feeding response can be difficult to monitor. Typically these corals utilize a mucus coat to capture food and slowly draw it into their mouths which can be seen during feeding time lapses.
Name: ChaliceTemperature: 24-26C Flow: low-mid PAR: 100-150Water parameters: Nitrate 5-10 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,08 mg/l Feeding: Not RequireCare level: Easy
Location
In terms of their distribution in the wild, chalice corals are found all over the Pacific. Given their broad distribution one would be led to assume that they are readily available in the hobby, but lately that has not been the case. At the time of this recording, there is currently an import/export ban in Indonesia and Fiji where many of these corals come from so most of the specimens available in the trade are being imported out of Australia.
Lighting
I recommend moderate lighting levels around 100 PAR. Most types of chalice corals are adaptable to different lighting intensities but the first priority should always be “don’t blow away corals with light.” It does not take very long to overexpose chalice corals that can lead to bleaching and a rapid decline in health. It is far better to provide substandard lighting intensity and slowly correct the situation by adjusting the light or placement of the chalice coral RATHER THAN accidentally blasting the coral with too much light and then trying to help it recover after it bleaches.
The other reason why I would not be in a huge hurry to go crazy on light is that for the most part, chalice corals are pretty consistent with their coloration. Sure there is always some degree of variability and the occasional outlier that CAN change their color in noticeable ways, but overall there is not a lot to be gained by messing with lighting. I would aim for moderate, consistent light and just let the coral adapt to the lighting conditions on its own.
One last point I will mention about lighting is bringing out fluorescence in chalices. Many species of chalice corals are highly fluorescent under actinic blue LED lights and are real show stoppers. Even if you are a die hard metal halide or t5 fan, you are missing out if you haven’t seen chalice corals under full actinic LED illumination. Consider getting just one inexpensive strip for late night viewing.
Water Flow
Like light, water flow is not something that I would go crazy with. Moderate water movement is recommended.
Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Several species of chalice corals naturally form a bowl shape and there has to be enough flow to sweep away anything that would otherwise settle in the middle.
Too much flow and you run the risk of having the coral fall off the rock work. Their plating shape once again plays a role because if there is a lot of flow, the colony acts like a sail and can lift it off of the rocks and either face down in the substrate or worse yet onto another coral.
Feeding
Chalices are considered photosynthetic corals meaning they have a symbiotic relationship dinoflagellates living in their flesh called zooxanthellae. Strictly speaking, the zooxanthellae are the organisms carrying out the actual photosynthesis but the coral animal benefits by accessing the byproducts of their photosynthetic activity, namely the simple sugars that are produced.
Although chalice corals derive much of their nutritional needs from the byproducts of photosynthesis, they are also capable feeders. Here at Tidal Gardens, we have tried feeding chalices a number of different types of food ranging from frozen foods to pellet foods. Chalices do not have pronounced polyp extension so their feeding response can be difficult to monitor. Typically these corals utilize a mucus coat to capture food and slowly draw it into their mouths which can be seen during feeding time lapses.
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: No feeding required, but may be fed plankton (e.g. Goldpods) if desired
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Euphyllia like Hammer corals are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. In particular, they are regularly harvested from the islands of the Indopacific including Fiji, Tonga, Solomon Islands, and the Great Barrier Reef.
Lighting
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank.
Water Flow
Moderate to strong water movement is recommended. One of the main draws to this type of LPS coral is how it sways in the current. Water flow is both healthy for the Hammer and is pleasing aesthetically.
Water Chemistry
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank. Agonizing over these levels might be mental overkill for this coral, but it is good to periodically test just to make sure everything is in the ballpark of natural sea water levels. A couple parameters worth paying closer attention to is nitrate and phosphate. LPS corals are sensitive to declining water quality and elevated levels of nitrate and phosphate are an indicator of declining water quality. Low nitrate levels around 5-10ppm are actually welcome for large polyp stony corals, but around 30-40ppm of nitrate you might start running into some issues such as tissue recession. In extreme cases, you might see a torch coral go through full-fledged polyp bailout which we will cover in a little bit.
Coral Aggression
Corals developed all kinds of adaptations to gain a competitive advantage in the battle for real estate on the reef. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these in order to create the best environment for them long term. Euphyllia are one of the corals that extends long sweeper tentacles. Sweeper tentacles are often used as a means of defence against other encroaching coral colonies. Their white tips contain a concentration of nematocysts that can damage more delicate tank mates. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing it in a location far from other corals initially. Like most coral, Euphyllia rely to a large extent on the products of their zooxanthellae, however, in our experience, they also benefit from direct feeding. Hammers, torches, and frogspawn do not seem to aggressively feed like other LPS, so finding the right food can be a challenge.
Name: Euphyllia Glabrescens
Temperature: 24-26C
Flow: low-mid
PAR: 50-150
Water parameters: Nitrate 5-20 mg/l, Phosphate 0,05-0,15 mg/l
Feeding: No feeding required, but may be fed plankton (e.g. Goldpods) if desired
Care level: Easy/Moderated
Location
Euphyllia like Hammer corals are found all over the tropical waters of the Pacific. In particular, they are regularly harvested from the islands of the Indopacific including Fiji, Tonga, Solomon Islands, and the Great Barrier Reef.
Lighting
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank.
Water Flow
Moderate to strong water movement is recommended. One of the main draws to this type of LPS coral is how it sways in the current. Water flow is both healthy for the Hammer and is pleasing aesthetically.
Water Chemistry
Torch corals are LPS meaning as stony corals, they require consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and to a lesser degree magnesium in order to grow their calcium carbonate skeleton. The amount of supplementation needed to maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium depends a lot on the size and growth rate of the stony corals in your tank. Agonizing over these levels might be mental overkill for this coral, but it is good to periodically test just to make sure everything is in the ballpark of natural sea water levels. A couple parameters worth paying closer attention to is nitrate and phosphate. LPS corals are sensitive to declining water quality and elevated levels of nitrate and phosphate are an indicator of declining water quality. Low nitrate levels around 5-10ppm are actually welcome for large polyp stony corals, but around 30-40ppm of nitrate you might start running into some issues such as tissue recession. In extreme cases, you might see a torch coral go through full-fledged polyp bailout which we will cover in a little bit.
Coral Aggression
Corals developed all kinds of adaptations to gain a competitive advantage in the battle for real estate on the reef. In our home aquariums we have to be conscious of these in order to create the best environment for them long term. Euphyllia are one of the corals that extends long sweeper tentacles. Sweeper tentacles are often used as a means of defence against other encroaching coral colonies. Their white tips contain a concentration of nematocysts that can damage more delicate tank mates. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing it in a location far from other corals initially. Like most coral, Euphyllia rely to a large extent on the products of their zooxanthellae, however, in our experience, they also benefit from direct feeding. Hammers, torches, and frogspawn do not seem to aggressively feed like other LPS, so finding the right food can be a challenge.
